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Keeping glue and holes out of concrete floors
When companies want to update their floor spaces and walls, they commonly replace or rearrange carpeting and vinyl tile. During these renovations, large volumes of adhesives, underlayments, and broad holes from anchors, studding, and equipment are frequently exposed. A solution that includes step-by-step instructions and guidance is now available.
Remodelers frequently have little choice but to reinstall similar adhesives and floor coverings such as carpet and tile. This is a problem because cheaper and longer-lasting alternatives such as strong epoxy, urethane, and glass emulsion exist.
If concrete is exposed to wear, it will deteriorate over time. Friction wear, erosion, and contamination are all elements that have an impact on the final result. Dust, cracks, cracking, uneven surfaces, and an inability to keep the environment clean are all indicators of a floor that has not been adequately protected and is on the verge of being unusable. Impurities are trapped in carpeting, which serves as a breeding ground for mold and mildew. When wet, vinyl tile can lift, has a soft texture that can be contaminated by solvents and dyes, and cannot tolerate high wheeled traffic. Epoxy laminates, on the other hand, create a wear barrier between a floor and its surroundings. These laminated surfaces operate as a protective layer on top of the concrete, preventing it from deteriorating. Other contaminants and dangers, such as PCBs, heavy metals, and hazardous compounds, are kept out of the porous concrete. When correctly installed, these laminated surfaces can provide decades of protection and service.
Epoxy-coated flooring, rather than simply covering up holes in even the most damaged floors, can actually restore them. Customers are often surprised to learn that existing wall and equipment stand holes can be filled with 100 percent solid epoxy and then ground flush. It's a simple, quick, and long-lasting process.
There may be a need for adhesive removers, oil-removing detergents, and long-lasting epoxy fills for holes, joints, fissures, and disintegrating surfaces. Materials kits can be customized to the owner's specifications and delivered directly to the project site. With full instructions and a 24/7 help line operated by seasoned flooring specialists, professionals and amateurs alike can install a great floor.
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Concrete damage can be aggravating and costly. You do, however, have a few options. You can do the work yourself or call us for assistance if you don't have time or aren't sure what you're doing.
The first step in restoring concrete is to completely comprehend what caused the damage and what type of damage it is. It will be difficult to choose the correct type of repair and material without a thorough grasp of these aspects, which could result in repairs that either don't get the job done or don't last as long as they should. When the industry says that many concrete repairs fail within two years, they are often correct; getting it right can be difficult.
So, what are the most prevalent types of concrete damage and the associated concrete repair projects, and how should you approach them?
1. The most typical type of concrete damage we find is simple cracking. Hairline cracks, shrinkage cracks, settlement cracks, and structural cracks are the four types, listed in order of severity. Cracks can indicate a variety of things. Patching or filling the cracked concrete is usually all that is required, although more may be required.
2. Work on the concrete surface. Repairing surface damage, nicks, spalling, and the effects of freeze/thaw action are all possible with surface restoration work. In most circumstances, if there is surface damage, the concrete will be unaffected, although it may not appear as well as it once did. There are a few options to think about here: Cutting the concrete, repairing the reinforcing material (usually rebar), and re-pouring that portion are all part of partial and full depth concrete repairs. Full-depth repair is clearly more difficult than partial-depth repair. Overlays are the third choice. This requires putting another layer of concrete on top of the one that has been damaged. The importance of proper surface preparation cannot be overstated.
3. Repairing the pool deck (concrete decks). It's vital to keep the concrete around your pool in good shape if you want to keep your pool looking nice. Concrete damage to a pool deck can develop for a variety of causes. Pool deck surfaces are the most vulnerable to freeze-thaw damage. The effect is enhanced by deicing chemicals and salts, which can compound the problem. Concrete with insufficient joints or support, as well as concrete that has been laid wrongly, can readily crack. Depending on the problem you're encountering, there are a variety of remedy options. Slabjacking, adding grit to the surface, crack filler, repairs, overlays, sealants, and cleaning are just a few examples. What approach is ideal depends on the type of damage you've sustained.
4. Work on the concrete driveway. Driveways are subjected to a great deal of wear and tear. Even well-built concrete driveways are subjected to vehicle traffic, exposure to the elements, uneven material beneath them, and a variety of other factors. When it comes to concrete driveway repair, you have three options, and the severity of the damage determines which is best: Your driveway can be repaired, resurfaced, or replaced. Repairing minor cracks and small holes is usually the only job you'll want to do on your own. Simply fill in the blanks. You'll need a concrete contractor to resurface or fully replace your driveway for additional projects.
5. Raising concrete that has sunk. Sunken concrete has probably been seen before on sidewalks, walkways, roads, and in bigger areas. This usually happens when the surface beneath the concrete was not properly compacted and is now settling. The ideal solution for this problem is slabjacking, which involves injecting foam or concrete beneath sinking concrete to raise it back to the desired level. Contractors are ideally equipped for these jobs, so call today to schedule an inspection and work.
Do you have any idea what kind of harm you're dealing with? It's not a good idea to go it alone. Give us a call if you'd like a second opinion or a professional evaluation and quote. We handle repairs on a regular basis and can get you back on your feet quickly.
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Getting Rid of Concrete Stains
Oil stains on concrete can be a pain to remove, but it's important to get started on these cleanup duties as soon as possible to keep your concrete looking its best. Cleaning early also aids in the prevention of permanent discoloration. Read the rest of our post on how to remove stains from concrete here. The size of the stain, the material, the amount of time the stain has been allowed to develop, and the atmosphere all play a role in how difficult it is to remove a stain.
Regrettably, the cleaning process is not always simple and may require some trial and error. It's advisable to act quickly if you discover a stain or a pool of liquid. Check to see if the liquid is harmful to you, and if it is, take the necessary precautions. (gloves, masks, and so forth.) Wipe up as much excess oil or liquid as you can before safely disposing of it. Cleanup will be easier if extra liquid is soaked up ahead of time. Then, using a paste-like combination, try to dissolve as much of the discoloration as possible. Powdered laundry detergent or baking soda have worked well for us. Scrub for a few minutes after this has been administered. Then, using water, rinse the concrete. After that, use soap to remove any remaining oil from the concrete. Apply some pressure with a scrub brush to get rid of the majority of the stain.
Have you followed the above methods but still have an unattractive stain on your concrete? Here are some more suggestions. Note that these will also remove stains that you may have overlooked or that have already set and dried.
You can use a poultice to break up the oil molecules and slowly extract the substance from the concrete surface, OR you can use a solvent.
You can remove the stain with an off-the-shelf concrete cleaner or degreasing product that works on concrete.
The poultice method is intriguing, and it can work miracles on deeply damaged concrete surfaces (albeit slowly). Poultice is a generic term for a group of molecules that break down oil and staining materials, then absorb them (like kitty litter) — but imagine kitty litter mixed with chemicals that break down materials. These are straightforward to use. Simply purchase, put to the discolored area, and cover to prevent outside moisture from interfering with the procedure and wasting the material's absorbent nature by absorbing ambient moisture. It's worth noting that the process may take some time and that it's not appropriate for all materials. Before you buy one of these compounds, it's a good idea to figure out what kind of material has discolored your concrete.
Degreasers and concrete/cement cleaners can also be really useful. They might also be more practical. Request concrete cleansers from your local hardware shop. Again, knowing what type of material has stained your concrete is great. It will be easy to choose the best chemical as a result of this. Stick to the package's instructions and be cautious. Scrubbing the concrete or simply letting it sit may be required for this operation. Regardless, be cautious and follow the directions.
Cleaning concrete is a pain, but the easiest approach to avoid stains is to deal with them as soon as you notice something has fallen onto your concrete.
Do you need a second opinion on concrete work or a cleaning? Do you require an evaluation? Give us a call today and we'll be pleased to assist you!